Free Climbing vs. Free Soloing

We’ve conducted extensive research and have concluded that there are two ways, and only two ways, a conversation between a non-climber and a climber can go (please note that we have not actually conducted research). 

The first: Sport Climbing?

"Yeah, I rock climb."

"Woah, that's so cool. Do you climb fast like those people during the Olympics?"

"Ummm…speed climbing? I've tried it, but I mostly sport climb."

"Oh. Cool. What's sport climbing?"

The second: Free soloing?

"Wait, you rock climb?"

"Yeah, I do."

"That's sick! I saw that movie about the guy who climbed without any ropes. Have you seen it?"

"You mean Free Solo about Alex Honnold?"

"Yeah! That's it!"

"I've seen it. But that's not the type of rock climbing I do."

While it's fantastic that rock climbing is garnering more and more attention in the public eye and on an international stage, sometimes the complexity of the sport is lost in translation. For non-climbers, it's understandable why speed climbing and free soloing are the most exciting to watch and talk about. The athletes are accomplishing some insane feats that get an audience's adrenaline pumping. Meanwhile, people overlook the nuances and niche specialties of bouldering, big-wall, alpine, and ice climbing.

So, in a turn of events, we will dive into the difference between the notable feat of free soloing and the lesser-understood discipline of free climbing. 

Free Soloing vs. Free Climbing

Free soloing is a climbing discipline where the climber ascends a rock climb without using protective gear. This means there's no rope or belayer to catch them if they fall and no crashpad beneath them. It is simply the climber, the rock face, a pair of climbing shoes on their feet, and a chalk bag around their waist. Due to the liability - life, severe injury, or death - you will only spot free soloists outside. You will receive reprimanding from gym staff if you attempt to scale an indoor wall without following proper safety procedures. 

Free climbing is a discipline where the climber ascends a route on the rock wall with safety gear but cannot rely on the equipment to advance their progress up the wall. In other words, the climber must generate all upward movements themselves. However, unlike free soloing, the climber will have a harness, rope, and belayer who will catch them if they fall. 

You may have heard rock climbers mention the terms sport climbing and trad (traditional) climbing. These are two types of free climbing. For sport climbing, the climber clips the rope into quickdraws attached to permanent bolt fixtures drilled into the rock face. Each quickdraw acts as an anchor to protect the climber, assuming the belayer is responsible when they fall. Trad, or traditional, climbing requires the individual to place cams or chocks into crevices in the rock. Once the climber assures the security of the hardware via tension and friction, they clip in with the rope. This type of climbing is usually done without pre-bolted spots to attach a quick draw. 

Free soloing requires minimal gear and only one climber, whereas free climbing requires at least two climbers and extra equipment. Outside, the rock climbers may be attempting to ascend a rock face longer than the length of one rope. In this case, the initial belayer follows the first climber up the wall, removing any safety gear placed along the way, while the first climber top-belays. Each section climbed in this fashion is called a pitch, hence the term multi-pitch climbing. Using this method, the climbers can continue safely to the top of the wall and descend via a trail or path down the backside of the mountain. It is also possible to have a sport climb or trad climb that is only one pitch, depending on where you are climbing! 

Rock climbing includes more than free soloing and speed climbing, but differentiating between disciplines can become complicated. Hopefully, this article helped clear up some confusion and leaves you more knowledgeable than you were so that next time someone starts to ask if you've seen Free Solo or Olympic speed climbing, you can explain to them how much more there is to rock climbing! Let us know if you have lingering questions below! We'd love to hear from you!