Does Chalk Really Matter for Rock Climbing?
Does chalk really matter for rock climbing? Scientifically yes. In reality, no.
It depends on your preferences and goals. But in our best efforts to help you out, we've taken the time to explain the scientific power of chalk, why some climbers come to rely on it out of habit, and how some climbers get by without ever touching the magnesium carbonate.
How Stuff Works: Climbing Chalk
Chalk is the chemical compound MgCO3 or magnesium carbonate. The basic idea behind using chalk is that it absorbs extra moisture from the skin, increasing friction between the climber and the rock.
Friction. The magic word. Every climber wants to maximize the friction between their hands, feet, and the wall. Different factors contribute to the amount of friction, including surface texture and angle of force via body position.
But is it possible to increase the coefficient of friction with climbing chalk? Or is it just the lie climbers tell themselves to make them feel better for the safety blanket of their chalk bag (more on that later)? According to a 2012 study published in Sports Technology, chalking up your hands and fingers will increase the coefficient of friction. However, grabbing a hold covered in chalk with additional chalk on your hands can decrease the coefficient of friction.
Huh? How can climbing chalk both decrease and increase friction? It goes with the age-old saying, 'Everything in moderation.' Climbing without chalk, especially if you have sweaty hands or it's humid, can increase the friction and, therefore, force you can apply to each climbing hold. However, too much of a good thing can be harmful, and when chalk builds up on a rock climbing hold, it can create a greasy residue. Couple that with additional chalk on your hands, and you have chalk on slippy chalk residue, which doesn't boost friction. Instead, you'll find yourself reaching for that stick brush and scrubbing away as much excess chalk as possible. Now, the chalk on your hands will work to increase friction instead of being "counteracted" by the build-up.
Climbing Chalk: The Security Blanket
With the scientific advantages or disadvantages of chalk out of the way, it's time to revisit a rock climber's mental dependence upon their chalk. Think about a rock climber ascending a sport climbing route. How often do you see them rest, chalk up a bunch of times, pat off the excess chalk on their leg/pants, and then keep climbing? For many, chalking up between boulders or mid-climb is as much a mental tactic as physical. The pause in climbing gives them a moment to refocus and a confidence boost that their hands are less likely to slip off the next few holds. Of course, there's still the chance that their hand will slip or they will fall trying a hard move. Ultimately, the mental reset and confidence boost are what matters.
The Outliers Who Don't Use Chalk
Lastly, some climbers don't even own a chalk bag because they refuse to use it. It's uncommon to see climbers without the white powder covering their hands, but that doesn't mean you won't. Some climbers might have dry hands already, and the chalk makes them too dry. Everything in moderation, right? Or, some climbers might be hyper-sensitive to textures and sensations, and the feeling of climbing chalk on their hands is uncomfortable. Either way, not using chalk doesn't make them less of a climber, nor is it guaranteed to hinder their performance.
At the end of the day, you do you. Just by looking around the climbing gym or crag, many climbers favor using chalk for one reason, whether physical, mental, or both. Yet, if magnesium carbonate doesn't float your boat, rock on without out (pun fully intended)! And if you have any other questions, comments, or concerns regarding this topic, please share them below!
