4 Footwork Tips for Intermediate Climbers
Footwork makes the dream work. Oh, whoops, you’re right. Supposedly, teamwork makes the dream work, but in the individualized sport of climbing, teamwork must come from within as you learn to master the mind-body connection. It may seem odd, but to excel in climbing, you must master the physical and mental aspects of the sport and, more importantly, learn to balance the two. Why are boulder problems called problems? Because, as the climber, your objective is to solve (by thinking) how to reach the top effectively. If you are strong enough, one could theoretically pull up, aka campus, their way to the finish. But, to become the most well-rounded and efficient rock climber, you’ll want to learn how to use your feet intentionally. If you’ve been climbing for a little while now, you’ll undoubtedly have realized that rock climbing is just as much about where you place your feet and use your legs as it is about your upper body and finger strength. So, to help your footwork make your climb dreams work, give these four footwork drills a whirl!
4 Footwork Drills for Intermediate Climbers
Remember that every footwork drill's goal is to learn to use your feet efficiently so you don’t pump out as fast and conserve energy by improving your overall rock climbing efficiency.
1. 2 Second Look - for Intentional Foot Placement
The most important skill you should master as an intermediate climber is to place your feet intentionally. They are often the first thing a rock climber needs to remember to use when they become tired, as their focus becomes dialed in on the next hand-hold or finish. When this happens, the climber tends only to look up and not down, which can cause them to neglect good footholds or positions that may make the next move less strenuous on their already tired forearms.
For this drill, you will pick and climb a handful of climbs you know you can complete. The catch is that every time you move one of your feet to a new foothold, you must look at your foot the entire time, from picking it up off the original hold until placing it on the new rock climbing hold of choice. Continue to look at your foot for 2 seconds once it is on the new hold before advancing.
While this drill may seem elementary, it is crucial for training the mind-body connection so that when fatigue hits, your brain automatically remembers to pay attention still to foot placement.
2. Sticky Feet - for Confident Foot Placement
As you master intentionality with foot placement, you should gain confidence in your foot placement. If you aren’t 100% confident, this is the perfect time to ‘fake it till you make it.’ As you progress to higher climbing levels, the footholds at your disposal will inevitably become smaller and less secure. But, the worst thing you can do for yourself is to doubt that your foot will stay on a rock climbing hold. Instead, despite the doubt creeping into your mind about the security of standing on such a little rock, trust that you know how to utilize your feet (thank the 2 Second Look Drill).
So to help you build up that confidence, this drill leaves you with no choice but to stand up on each foothold you touch because, as the name implies, your feet are sticky. It must stay in that position as soon as you place it down. No micro-adjustments or backtracking, or deciding to use another foothold. Whether or not you are 100% confident in weighing a particular foot does not matter. The more you learn to fully commit to a move and push your weight through your toes, the easier to trust sub-par footholds and the less likely you are to slip off from not putting enough pressure (which in turn creates more friction, making you stick the move).
3. Smear Up - Learn to Smear Effectively
If you are unfamiliar with smearing, it is when you push against the rock wall to gain traction and stability or advance up the wall when the designated feet are subpar or non-existent.
Learning to smear effectively is helpful when going outdoor climbing, as the footholds are not as evident as the colored holds that commercial climbing gyms sport. It is also a critical skill to advance master as you move up grades indoors, where the footholds are so small and flat it’s almost like they aren’t there.
This drill is simple to execute. All you need to do is to pick a climb, start on easy climbs, and use as few designated feet as possible, opting to smear on the wall instead. A simple cue to help master smearing is to push the toe-box of your climbing shoe into the wall and drop your heels. This cue will help you maintain the traction between your foot and the wall. Smearing is about pressing, not standing.
4. Hook-It - Get Comfy with those Heel and Toe-hooks
While some advanced climbers may excessively throw up heel and toe hooks to show off their skill, knowing how to execute both will prove helpful in maximizing efficiency.
Pick a boulder or rope climb with mostly jugs for your first few attempts of this drill, ideally on an overhung wall. On every move, where possible, execute a heel hook. Then climb the route or problem again and toe-hook as many times as possible.
